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CV of speaker – John Hook Nationality: English Employer: Clariant International, Basel, Switzerland. Education: MSc Polymer and Dyestuff Chemistry – Bradford College, England Member: Associate of Society of Dyer and Colourists Awards: Turner Schofield Award (1988)– Work on Reactant Fixable Dyestuffs Work History: Synopsis: Nylosan S - A High Fastness alternative for the dyeing of Wool and Nylon fibersAuthor: John Hook, Clariant International Ltd., Neuhofstrasse 11, CH - 4153, Reinach BL, Switzerland Section 1 The paper discusses the rudimentary, ecological and practical issues for successful dyeing of polyamide and polypeptide fibers. The demands on processing fastness and the increasing demands on end user fastness, the shift to finer synthetic fibers and the problems presented by the long haired superfine woolen fibers gives the dyer a number of potential dyestuff options for both fiber types. However there are, as always, positive and negative aspects of each potential dyestuff class and equally, post fixation treatments to consider and this paper takes a look at what dyestuffs are available and where a technical gap is filled by the development and expansion of the Nylosan S dyestuff range along with post fixation using Nylofixan HF. Section 2 The ‘design ‘of a new dyestuff has many influences and all these must be considered to reach the optimum goal (namely, a product which performs and ultimately sells).The different perspectives of those in the chain - Dyestuff Manufacturer – Dyer – Retailer – to ultimately the End User are discussed: Chemical and physical constitution, stability, ecology in manufacture, economy, ease of application, fastness, application stability, subsequent processing stability, fault correction, coverage, ecology in application, performance, color appeal, resilience and ultimately ecology in disposal. Section 3 The practical application and subsequent fastness of the Nylosan S on raw wool, S/R treated wool and polyamide microfiber (and elastane blends). What is achieved with this new chemistry and how. Where Nylosan S fill the existing gaps for dye selection for both fibre types and where potential application problems that can arise from existing dye ranges are avoided. The essential role of aftertreatments (Nylofixan HF) is discussed and how their use is in some instances, is unavoidable. |